Leading a club trip is always an exciting challenge, but this year's adventure was particularly full of surprises. Our initial plan, following the format of the past two years, was to embark on a backcountry mountaineering expedition. However, this year, we shifted to a front-country experience, featuring one day of mountaineering and three days of multipitch climbing. This change, along with a series of unexpected events, made for an unforgettable trip and compelling mix for future trips.
Facing the Unexpected: Forest Fires
One of the most significant surprises was the forest fires in the region. These fires threatened the feasibility of our trip, which was trivial in comparison to the sad devastation of Jasper. This added an emotional weight to our journey, knowing that such a beloved area was suffering. Despite the fires, we managed to continue, albeit with a change in plans. One of our mountaineering objectives, Columbia Icefield, became unattainable. But, we pivoted to a secondary goal, demonstrating the resilience and flexibility of our group.
The Team
Our team consisted of six enthusiastic participants: Ray, Krista, Erica, Jolene, Charles, and Trisha. We were fortunate to be led by two exceptional guides, Erica Roles and Merrie-Beth Board (MB). Their expertise and leadership were crucial in navigating the challenges we faced.
Acclimatization Day: Lake Helen and Cirque Peak
Before our official activities began, we had a self-guided acclimatization day. Claire and Len (recent club transplants from Manitoba to Canmore) joined us as we ventured to the beautiful Lake Helen. This day allowed us to acclimate to the altitude and enjoy the serene surroundings. Some of our group continued to summit Cirque Peak, adding an early sense of accomplishment to our trip.
A Day of Mountaineering: Mount Hector and Bow Hut
Our mountaineering day was divided into two groups, each with their own objective. Both groups had an alpine start with a 4am wake-up time and boots on the trail at 5am.
One group (Ray, Erica, and Charles), led by Erica Roles, successfully summited Mount Hector, one of the renowned 11,000'ers. After a hike through the forest, meadows, and rock, the team emerged onto the glacier, navigating snow-covered crevasses, steep ice walls, and summit rock. Erica Roles kept the team moving to successfully reach the summit by the 1 pm turnaround time, then back to the car for a thirteen and a half hour day.
The second group (Jolene, Trisha, and Krista), guided by MB, embarked on a scenic hike to Bow Hut. This hike featured a variety of terrain, including beautiful mountain and glacier views, forests, waterfalls, boulder fields, a fun boulder problem to get across the Bow River, and several river crossings. MB provided plenty of tips and tricks for traveling through different terrains and shared many entertaining stories along the way. The group took a nice break at Bow Hut to gear up for Glacier School. As they hiked up to the toe of the glacier, MB sprinkled them with historical facts about the glaciers, enhancing their appreciation of them.
At the toe of the glacier, they donned their crampons and learned several techniques for traveling along the glacier, including uphill travel, traversing, climbing downhill, short roping as a group, and how to self-arrest in case of a fall. They also learned how to safely place ice screws, build anchors, and create v-threads. It was very fun and educational, though they would have done more if it hadn't already been an 11-hour and 15-minute day.
Days of Multipitch Climbing
The next three days were dedicated to multipitch climbing, with participants pairing up for various objectives.
Multipitch Day 1:
Erica and Jolene paired with MB to climb the impressive Takakkaw Falls, The most challenging part was the steep scree pile at the base, but once past that, they enjoyed nine pitches of diverse and interesting climbing. The route featured everything from traverses to dihedrals, with a giant waterfall roaring beside them. At the top, they navigated a 100-meter tunnel, which required some tight squeezes, almost lying down at times. The reward was worth it—a breathtaking view of the waterfall's powerful mouth as the water plunged over the edge. Truly impressive!
Ray and Krista took advantage of their day off to team up with Claire to conquer Dancing Sasquatch on Tunnel Mountain in Banff. This was Krista's first time on real rock and she rocked it!
Charles and Trisha joined Erica Roles for a day of trad climbing up-skilling at the back of Louise Lake, working on supplementing gaps in their trad climbing and multipitch skills and gear placements.
Multipitch Day 2:
Ray and Krista climbed Mother's Day Buttress with Erica Roles. A beautiful climb on Cascade Mountain ended with a descent across the base of the iconic waterfall. Future drives to Banff and the sight of Cascade Mountain will undoubtedly evoke memories of an amazing day!
Erica and Jolene tackled Plutonium Shores with MB. The weather provided the perfect day. A great approach, great view of Banff and the valley, and fun climbing. The 5.9 pitch has cool 2 finger pockets with use of some solid underclings. With the wind, some moves felt a bit more exposed, but enjoyable all around.
Charles and Trisha used their day off to enjoy a well-deserved rest, visiting the local farmers market, some yoga and physio maintenance, and relaxation at the beach. Always an opportunity for some good food!
Multipitch Day 3:
Charles and Trisha climbed Deception on Nanny Goat with Erica Roles. Charles impressively led 8 out of the 10 pitches, receiving insightful feedback and route recommendations from Erica.
Ray and Krista teamed up with MB to send Rundlehorn. Krista joined the trip having never climbed on rock, and easily finished the day, now with three multipitch climbs under her belt (or harness) - what a natural!
Erica and Jolene, on their day off, climbed Minihapa alongside Cascade Falls and decided to continue up Keeping it Riel for an 8 pitch day. Route finding on the last pitch was challenging. and the walkoff after rapping down from the last pitch was sketchy. The exit route was a giant rockfall zone (most likely from avalanche), making it an epic end to a big "day off". Mental note: only do Minihapa next time!
Reflection
To cap off the week, the group gathered for a celebratory dinner at the ACC Clubhouse, sharing stories and reliving the highlights of the trip.
This trip was a testament to our group's adaptability and spirit of adventure. Despite the unexpected challenges posed by the forest fires, including the heartbreaking devastation of Jasper, we made the most of our time in the mountains, achieving personal climbing goals and building lasting memories. Our guides, Erica Roles and MB, played an integral role in our success, providing expertise and encouragement every step of the way.
As we look back on this trip, we are reminded that the best adventures often come with surprises. Embracing these surprises can lead to incredible experiences and stories that we will cherish for years to come.
Looking forward to the next adventure!
Comentários