ONE STONE
One Stone Crag is but one of many granite cliffs discovered by Anita Geisel in recent years during her extensive back-country wanderings through Whiteshell Park. Accessible by logging roads near Brereton Lake. Due to its proximity to a large marshy meadow and pond, visits are best planned for late spring or left until later in fall to minimize insects.
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The cliff is similar in size and quality to Panorama (albeit shorter) or Lover’s Leap at Redditt. There are several moderate crack climbs, yet much of the granite has yet to be explored. The rock is extremely featured and may yield a high number of harder routes climbable using TR. Note that the cliff is located within a provincial park & subject to park regulations, so please refrain from bolting (it’s illegal) or excessive ‘gardening’ and lichen removal. Despite the extensive clear-cutting in the area, we must still use discretion to minimise our impact in the parkland.
Access
From Hwy 44, drive on Provincial Road 307 approx 6 km NW of Brereton Lake. After passing under the Hydro Transmission Line, drive another 1 km then turn right at the first dirt logging road. Take the first main branch right at approx 2km, and continue for approximately 4 km total from the roadway. The cliff is obvious across a large drained beaver pond, and faces due south.
Approach the cliff from the beaver dam.
Classic Routes
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Giardia There Yet? 5.8, 21m
TR Keely Gilmore & Brian McMillan, Sept 27th, 2008
Where the trail first meets the cliff and and the beaver dam, climb the face just right of the outside corner. Use thin edges and pockets to gain the crack. Follow the shallow groove to the top.
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Leaning Tree Groove Direct 5.9, 15m
FA Mick Hawley & Brian Posthumus, Sept 30th, 2007
The first obvious corner line. The large dead tree can be used for protection. At the top of the tree follow the thin crack that trends left (crux). Easier finishes would go left or right at 5.7, avoiding the thin crack at top.
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I’m Lichen It!! 5.10c, 9m
TR Brian McMillan & Keely Gilmore, Sept 27th, 2008
Just a little too high to be a boulder problem, the 10c line goes up midway between the Leaning Tree and Beaver Fever corners. Climb the face to the ledge using pockets, incuts, thin edges and the shallow groove. Several more difficult lines may be possible on this short but well featured wall.
Beaver Fever 5.8, 16m
FA Brian McMillan & Anita Geisel, April 28th , 2007
The 2nd obvious corner line. Climb pockets and edges up the open-book corner (sometimes damp) past the birch trees. Go left at the ledge, then up the right trending ramp until below the cracks above. Climb cracks & face to top (crux).
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Short Chicks Unglued 5.7, 18m
FA Brian McMillan, Anita Geisel & Mick Hawley, April 28th , 2007
Climb to the left of the hourglass shaped rock. Use caution, the hourglass is fractured through the center. Climb the open-book corner above.
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Punch Buggy 5.10b, 18m
TR Brian McMillan & Mick Hawley, May 27th , 2007
Just left of Short Chicks, climb either the right facing corner or face to the left (much harder) to mossy ledge. The crux follows the obvious crack (12 ft left of Short Chicks) to top.
Green Frog and Grey Frog 5.10b, 18m
TR Brian Posthumus, Sept 30th, 2007
Open book corner to overhang covered in orange lichen. Steep cracks continue above. Sustained above the roof, crux is the final 15 ft.
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Eager Beaver 5.7, 18m
FA Mick Hawley, Brian McMillan & Anita Geisel, April 28th , 2007
Boulder the crux at start to gain the easier right trending ramp to top.
Beaver-Aid 5.10, A0
FA Mick Hawley & Brian McMillan, May 27th , 2007
Start up the left-trending crack to left of Eager Beaver. Climb straight up then hand-traverse over poor feet right to Eager Beaver ramp.
Beaver Cleaver 5.10a, 18m
TR Brian McMillan, Anita Geisel, Brian Posthumus, Mick Hawley, Sept 30th, 2007
Start as for Beaver-Aid, but rather than traversing right, mantle instead onto the horizontal crack. Climb the bulging face into the groove above, and finish on the top corner section of The Sands of Time.
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Hardcore Beaver 5.10 A0, 16m
FA Mick Hawley & Rick Wood, July 19th , 2008
Start as for Beaver Aid. Instead of climbing straight up, continue left and up the diagonal crack until it is possible to reach up for the shelf where a small block has been pulled away. Pull up and left onto the broad sloping ledge and continue up the broken slab, small wires and micro-cams protect. Join Sands of Time and finish up the 90 degree corner.
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The Sands of Time 5.9, 16m
FA Mick Hawley & Brian McMillan, April 28th , 2007
Another bouldery start. Climb the left trending crack to gain the thin crack on a smooth ramp. Follow right trending cracks on face to top.
Tail Slap 5.10b, 16m
TR Brian Posthumus, Brian McMillan, Anita Geisel, Mick Hawley, Sept 30th, 2007
Start up the obvious weakness, to the very thin clean vertical crack on the left of the face. Climb thin edges and friction up the slab above.
Sunday Stroll 5.8, 16m
FA Mick Hawley & Brian McMillan, May 27th , 2007
Start about 15 ft to the left of ‘Sands of Time’. Taking care with the loose undercut flake, boulder up to the ledge. The faint crack in the centre of the slab provides several small wires. Balance up right of the crack and around the good handhold on the right (nut) onto the leftward slanting ramp (peg). Step left to easier ground and then take twin cracks to the top, again beware of loose rock.
Mind Games 5.9R, 12m
FA Mick Hawley & Brian McMillan, August 6th, 2007
About 20 feet left of Sunday Stroll and just right of the large vertical face, a clean and inviting slab lies to the right of a corner crack. Hop up onto the wide ledge, then make hard moves up & over the bulge (crux) and left onto the slab. Compose yourself and then pad up the slab into the corner, taking care with a large chunk of loose rock. Another couple of balancy moves lead to easy ground.
Easy Beaver 5.3, 13m
FA Mick Hawley & Brian McMillan, May 27th , 2007
From the bottom of the Exit Route, follow the rightward-trending line of flake cracks. Easier than it looks to climb but harder to protect as placing cams behind the flakes is inadvisable.
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Exit Cracks 5.7, 10m
FA Mick Hawley & Brian McMillan, August 6th, 2007
Climb the obvious, and often wet, vegetated crack in the wall adjacent to the exit route, again beware of large loose blocks perched to the right of the crack. The curving upper crack is cleaner and well protected.
Exit Route
Ascend ramp at the far left of the cliff. Beware of loose stones near the bottom, and force your way through the bushes above.