Classic Routes

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Parking Lot Face

 

Poco Loco 5.10b, 12m **

Mike Baxter, Susan Baker-Baxter – 1994
Near the left end of the cliff, on a steep flat face to the right of a deep, ugly chimney. Follow the thin straight-up crack on the face where black and white water stains meet.

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Chico Sucio 5.7, XXm

Mike Baxter, Susan Baker-Baxter – 1994
Follow cracks in the inside corner 3m right of Poco Loco.

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Les Boys 5.10b, 18m **

Casey Shaw, Doug Leonard, Terry Makos – 1990 Sept
Junction of the black and white face above and to the right of the parking area. Start behind a large flake that almost touches the face and follow bolts to the chain anchors at the top.

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Driven by Desire 5.10c, 30m **

Casey Shaw, Wendy Volkmann – 1990 Oct
Start above a huge boulder 20m right of Les Boys. Face climb 3m to a ledge and continue up the thin crack.

 

Aku Aku 5.7, 18m

Casey Shaw, Wendy Volkmann – 1990 Oct
Goes up the left side of the prominent nose 5m to the right of Driven by Desire. The direct finish up the overhang at the top is 5.9.

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Center Face

The next group of climbs are located near a steep black face marked by white and green vertical streaks at the centre of the cliff. Access is via a trail that starts at the parking lot and follows the base of the cliff (XX?).

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Birthday Boy 5.2, 24m

Lucille Doucette, Everett Fee – 1992 May 18
Follows the huge chimney that splits the center of the cliff. Can likely be used as an exit route.

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Hacuna Matata 5.2, 21m

Lucille Doucette, Everett Fee – 1992 May 17
A prominent inside corner 7m to the left of Lost in Face.

 

Lost in Face 5.11c, 27m ***

Casey Shaw – 1991 Sept 2
Follows a very thin crack that goes straight up the tallest part of the cliff. Climb the face to the right of the crack (bolts), then move back to the crack on natural pro.

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Chair of Bowlies 5.5, 27m

Doug Leonard, Caroline Marion – 1992 May 17
Climb the arete 3m left of Dinner at Eight. Step right above the arete and follow a dihedral to the top.

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Dinner at Eight 5.7, 24m *

Casey Shaw, Wendy Volkmann, Doug Leonard – 1991 Sept 1
The outside arete just to the right of a small cave, 10m to the right of Lost in Face. Follow a thin crack to a narrow ledge below a slightly overhanging face; move right (the overhang is 5.9+) and up an obvious crack to a lichen-covered face which leads to the top.

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It’s Better to Gibbon than to Recede 5.10d, 27m *

Casey Shaw – 1992 Sept 2
20m right of Dinner at Eight is an arching finger crack (crux) that leads to a triangular alcove below a roof. A convenient crack leads out of the roof to the top.

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OV Wall

More to right is a big pink inside corner. From the road you can see the initials “F.M.” and “O.V.” carved into the lichens near the top of the cliff in this area.

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Quick and Dirty 5.4, 24m

Everett Fee, Lucille Doucette – 1991 Sept 1
The dark inside corner located at the far left side of the pink face.

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Yellowjackets 5.6, 24m

Everett Fee, Lucille Doucette – 1991 Aug 31
Start a few steps to the left of Poultry in Motion and follow a prominent crack to a ledge. Cross right over the line of Poultry in Motion and ascend a short corner to the top.

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Poultry in Motion 5.7, 27m *

Doug Leonard, Caroline Marion – 1990 Sept
In the middle of the pink face is a left-leaning ramp which leads to a thin crack (crux) that goes straight to the top.

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Rough Grouse 5.10a, 24m

Doug Leonard – 1992 Sept
The steep face just left of the small overhang immediately right of Poultry in Motion.

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Tres Lewd 5.6, 24m

Terry Makos, Lori Parker – 1990 Sept
Starts at the right side of the pink face on a ledge just above some big boulders. Face climb, trending right to a ledge and then continue to the top along a left-leaning crack.

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Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow 5.7, 24m

Terry Makos, Lori Parker, Caroline Marion – 1990 Sept
Located immediately left of Linguine and Lycra. Face climb to a ledge, then up to a crack to the top.

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Linguine and Lycra 5.9, 24m *

Terry Makos, Doug Leonard, Casey Shaw – 1990 Oct
A fine route following the crack that splits a small roof on the left side of the big roof that forms Chimp the Move.

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Chimp the Move 5.11a, 24m *

Casey Shaw – 1991 Aug 31
Below and to the left of the initials on the rock face is a prominent roof. Follow the big crack that splits this roof.

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The Doctor, the Condor, the Buffer and his Bosch 5.8, 24m **

Doug Leonard, Casey Shaw, Terry Makos – 1990 Oct
Follow the cracks on the face 5m right of Chimp the Move.

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Seafood Face

The following climbs are located in a huge alcove at the right side of the cliff.

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Whale Meat, Again? 5.9, 24m *

Casey Shaw, Doug Leonard, Terry Makos – 1990 Sept
The crack in an inside corner on the left side of the huge alcove.

 

Shark Sandwich 5.6, 27m **

Doug Leonard, Terry Makos, Casey Shaw – 1990 Sept
The left-leaning crack at the right side of the huge alcove. Move off the ground (crux) through horizontal ledges to the sustained 5.5 left-trending crack.

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Bouldering

Jones Cliff offers good bouldering; the following selection will get you started. Directions assume that you are viewing the cliff and the boulders from the road.

 

Standing in the parking lot at the left end of the cliff, look up and left to the top of the sandhill. The boulder on the edge is the Doomsday Boulder. Several routes start out of the cave on the back side of the boulder.

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Burn the Flag V0+ 3m
Start on the right edge of the cave on the big holds at chest level, go straight up (the obvious nose of rock is off-route).

 

The Sound of No Hands Slapping V3 3m ***
Start on the big holds on the lip; use small slopers to get to the top. The top of the nose and the big hold up and left (over the lip) are off-route.

 

No Borders V1 3m **
Start on the left-most big holds, then go up and right.

 

Strip Search V0 4m **
Uses a series of big holds above the undercut wall to the left of the cave. The grade applies only if you can reach the first hold.

 

Why Me? V0+ 3m
Just to the right of the previous boulder is a boulder with an obvious overhanging face. Going straight up this face is a beautiful mantle problem.

 

To the left of these boulders the cliff breaks into upper and lower walls. To get to the lower wall, walk left until you come to a cleared spot at the base of the cliff. The upper wall routes are almost directly above the lower wall.

 

Headcheese V1 4m *
Located on the lower wall, this route climbs up and over the prominent bulge on good incuts.

 

Granite Jesus v?m
This hard problem is on the upper level, just right of Headcheese. Sit down at an undercut crack and weasel your way over and up.

 

Bruised Heels V1 4m ***
Just below and right of Les Boys is a boulder with a gently overhanging face: the Tooth Boulder. Climb the left side of the face on excellent incuts. Lots of scary, committing fun on good rock. A spotter is recommended.

 

Clear Cuttin’ V0+m *
The right face of the Tooth Boulder. Directly below Driven By Desire is a 5 meter high boulder. This is the Spud; its many easy climbs make it a very enjoyable boulder. 15m right of the Spud and a bit further away from the cliff is a boulder with a severely overhanging side where it touches a smaller boulder, forming a sort of tunnel. This is the Jones Boulder.

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Keeping Up With The Jones’ V4 R 4m ***
At the bottom of the overhanging wall is a small crack that ends at a large sloping hold, start with both hands on this hold. Follow the line of big holds up and left to the lip of the overhang and belly your way over. Mega tricky; a spotter is essential.

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Buttkiss V2m **
Start sitting down at the extreme right end of the boulder that the Jones Boulder touches (behind previous route). Traverse right to left through the tunnel.

 

Nanukutuk the Seal? V1 2m
The Inuvik Boulder is the large boulder between The Spud and The Jones Boulder. One side of this boulder has an overhanging face; mantle over this face just left of center at an obvious break.

 

The Pimp From Puckatawagen V2 2m **
This is a hard route to find. When walking on the road side of Inuvik Boulder you will come to what seems to be its end. Start sitting down at the bottom of the ramp-like boulder that touches it. From this somewhat cramped position, pull to the lip and then work your way over.

 

Smokin’ V0-m **
To the right of the Jones Boulder is a right facing 2 meter high wall. This is the Man Am I Ever Fried Boulder. Traverse the short face of this boulder either way to get a good pump.

 

Tearing V ?m ***
Just to the right of Smokin’ is a little cave (~2 m high) on the main cliff; start in the back of this cave. Jam out along the 2 meter long roof crack, being careful not to touch the boulder on your right side. Move over the lip and go up until a finger crack exits right. Follow this crack until you can easily step off.

Sunnyside boulder is the obvious box-shaped boulder a short walk down the road from the parking lot. It is always in the sun, has easy access, a grass landing, a good place to lace-up, and seemingly every conceivable type of problem.